AYENAT MERSIE FOR the first time in years, Arya Rams falls asleep and wakes up each day without a dense knot of fear in her chest. She lives in a room in a safe house deep in Kenya's Rift Valley, supported by the Dutch non-governmental organisation Trans Rescue. Being transgender in Kenya can be dangerous. In 2021, her friend was stoned to death by a mob on a beach near the city of Malindi, she said. A few months later, Arya said she was chased by people wielding machetes. Arya, 27, said the protections of the safe house have been…